I have always admired the artistry and beauty of designer Naeem Kahn. This year, to celebrate his 10th anniversary, his vision was a bit of an homage not just to one woman he might dress or show on the runway, but everyone from the past 10 years. The signature of richly-embelished and textured clothing continued, but the collection was slightly less colorful than in years’ past, with a lot of the last looks in black and white. The makeup by NARS has been covered separately (click here to read the Naeem Kahn NARS Beauty report, products & photos) but the entire beauty look wouldn’t be complete without something unique for hair, and nails.
ROCK AND ROLL HAIR By JOSEPH DiMAGGIO FOR DAVINES:
Of all the talented people I have ever met backstage in decades, Lead Hair Stylist Joeseph DiMaggio, who created the hair look for Davines, for Naeem Kahn’s Autumn/Winter 2015 runway show, was the coolest stylist I have ever met, and he really seemed to be having the most fun. That’s pretty amazing, because being a lead artist for a major fashion show is a big responsibility, Your work is going to be on the heads of all of the models seen by everyone in the venue and around the world. That hairstyle will be photographed and shown everywhere for years to come. The designer’s collection and who purchase it will be influenced in part by what you do. On top of that, you’re working in a cramped space, crowded with photographers, petulant models, people (including paparazzi and bloggers) who can often get in your way. But Mr. DiMaggio was taking it all in stride, cool, confident, smiling, laughing. “Good Morning, How is everyone this morning?Are you having fun?! ” he inquired of his interviewers, cracking a huge smile as a bunch of (unsmiling) bloggers and other journalists crowded in with their phones shoved near him, hoping to capture every word as he demonstrated and described the hair look. Honestly, Joseph made us all feel good!
But while the “fun” vibe was happening with Joseph, the work was serious. The look was cool girl and like most runway looks, seemingly effortless, but not quite. Still, it’s an a-symmetrical roll that you might actually be able to do at home, with a little patience, a lot of bobby and hair pins, some product, and some practice. Joseph created an asymmetrical side part, sweeping all the hair over to one side. To make the roll, the key is the “anchor” of bobby pins” that Joseph used to create a “spine” on which the roll can be tethered (you can use any color because the pins won’t show–on this model’s blonde hair the pins were dark and you can’t see them). Then he rolled the hair up and used traditional hairpins to secure the roll to the spine of bobby pins. He double-baked the pins to secure them. Then he used More Inside This ia a Medium Hold Hairspray ($28.00) Davines.com to keep the look from moving around as the models dressed and walked the runway.
If you want to try this hair look at home, here’s how:
1. Blow Dry Hair using a paddle brush section by section. 2. Section hair from ear to ear
3. Tie the back section of the hair and continue by adding Davines More Inside This is a Volume Boosting Mousse ($34.00 Davines.com) to the hairline and root online.
4. Using a wide tooth comb, dry the roots in upward and in one direction focusing on molding the hair to the right side to create volume.
5. Backcomb the bottom of the separated hair at the roots, using vertical diagonal sections to the right, the brush the surface of the bottom section of the hair, keeping a clean and strong part. Bobby pin the hair into a vertical line on the head.
6. Taking the top section of the hair, roll and twist away from the face to line up with the bottom half of the hair, continue the roll and twist motion by securing with U-pins (hairpins). The twisted hair will gradually become larger in the back of the crown. Hint: be sure the first bobby pin is at the top of the head pointing towards the back of the head and the first bobby pin at the bobom of the hair points toward the top of the head to secure the roll.
7. Using a tail comb, pick the hair into the desired shape, pull flyaways along the temples and nape for a more natural look. Secure the entire look by using More Inside This is a Medium Hold Hair Spray.
for more information on Davines visit the Davines Web Site
GO FOR THE GOLD! METALLIC NAILS BY JULIE KANDALEC FOR ESSIE:
ne of the recurring themes this fashion week has been “neutral” tones in makeup. I don’t mean beiges and browns, I mean that the colors chosen are neither too cool nor too warm, so that the color chosen is flattering on both warm and cool skin tones, and on skin colors of every intensity. So when lead Julie Kandalec for essie selected her nail colors, she combined a warm and cool metallic and layered them together, to create what was in effect, a neutral champagne metallic that she called “distressed gold.
1. This is an easy to do look and you can do it too! Apply a ridge filling base coat to clean, filed nails.
2. Apply two coats of Shifting Power (gold) and allow to dry thoroughly
3. Apply a very thin coat of Jiggle Hi Jiggle Low (silver)
4. Finish with Good to Go Top Coat
, she applied two coats of Essie’s Shifting Power ($9), a sheer gold, followed by one very thin coat of Essie’s Jiggle High, Jiggle Low ($9), a full-coverage silver. “With very little on the brush, dry brush it on really, really lightly,” Kandalec says. The idea is to let the color underneath show through. The result is not gold, not silver, but instead a “neutral metallic.”
for more information on essie, visit the essie web site and your favorite salon