By Alison Blackman
Director and Founder of Parfums Dusita Pissara Umavjani (aka. “Ploi Uma”) grew up in Asia, but lives in Paris. It is so evident that she’s passionate about fragrance, and her products tell that story well. She actually contacted me via LinkedIn and personally sent samples of the fragrances to me from Paris. I really was impressed at this attention.
In a deluge of fruity florals, we yearn for something new, such as these daringly different and exciting scents from Parfums Dusita: Issara, Melodie de L’Amour and Oudh Infini.
Dusita Paris is a new fragrance house, with just three interesting, high quality, niche fragrances. Without getting too much into it, Dusita is “the heavenly realm of pure delight, full of pleasure and contentment”– Thai paradise. All three Dusita fragrances are created as an expression of overflowing happiness; “a fragrant poem evoking different states of happiness”. I believe that Dusita is an homage to her father who was a Thai Poet. Like many perfumers, adding passion to a product is what makes it special, and successful.
The new star is Dusita Oudh Infini. It is in three words: savage, animalic, sensual. At first sniff, it reminded me of the lions cages from long ago at the Bronx Zoo. I don’t mean that in an unkind way. It’s just not like anything else you’ll smell. The key is a sensual Rose de Mai and a new Oudh accord. The unisex fragrance is Oudh Infini is a new and limited perfume by released in 2016. The nose behind it is Ploi Umavijani. For Oudh Infini, the top notes are Laotian oud, rose de mai and Tunisian orange blossom; middle notes are Siamese benzoin and Indian sandalwood; base notes are Madagascar vanilla, musk and civet. I love the woody Oudh fragrances, but this isn’t quite what is expected. From beginning to drydown and beyond, it’s a strong scent the processes you – heady, exotic, animalic and terribly exciting. It won’t be for everyone, but irresistible to the few who wear it well.
Melodie d’Amour is something more feminine, with a strong nod to white florals. If you lvoe gardenia and tuberose, you’ll swoon at the recognition in the first sniff. Add honey and a white flowers accord and it’s almost too daring without any fruit to balance the top. But in the heart there is some peach, along with even more white florals and then at the base, sensual musk and cedarwood. Somehow, it blends and dries down to something almost powdery, but still strong, sensual, you might feel inspired to wear it, and waft the seductive scent to your beloved with the wave of a white lace fan. The top notes are Gardenia, Tuberose, White flowers accord, Honey; middle notes of Peach, Broom, Lily of the Valley, Jasmine; and base notes of Cedarwood, Musk.
Issara is not just the lightest in color juice-wise of the three, but in some ways, it’s the most universally understandable. It smells like good pipe tobacco with green notes. It’s masculine, but in a way a woman can make it sexier than even male chemistry can. As someone who like spicy, orientals, Issara is an interesting mix of spicy, green and fresh. In some ways, i think of Issara as a walk in the deep woods, where mushrooms and ferns and moss mix with pine and the sweet smell of wood that is both fresh, and decomposing. I didn’t look at the notes before writing this, and was delighted to find that my description actually does fit the notes quite well: top notes of Pine leaves, Lavender, Clary sage; a heart of Coumarin, Vetiver, Sylvester Pine, and Tobacco; and a base of Musk, Grey Amber, Oakmoss. I might share this with a man, but as a woman, it’s mine to cherish right now.
I wish I’d known about Parfums Dusita at 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris while I was visiting France recently. It can also be purchased at Jovoy Paris, 4 rue de Castiglione. It’s not easy to find these fragrances. In the United States, Je ne sais pas, but there is a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/parfumsdusita/ *Update there is also a website: http://www.dusitaperfume.com/