Abaeté (pronounced ah-BYE-ah-tay), translates roughly to “person of virtue.” The Fall 2008 collection had lots to commend it, with a collection both modern, and inspired by ancient history. When I arrived backstage, several hours before showtime, lead hair stylist David Cruz for Redken was already hard at work, smoothing the hair of the first model to create a unique ponytail that looked wonderful on the runway. The AdviceSisters covered Mr. Cruz’s backstage work for Redken on the Spring 2008 collection for Abaete , too.
The concept for this show was a low, carefully constructed ponytail. David said he was inspired by Japanese Anime, in which idealized girl characters have wild hair. He said he wanted a return to strong female characters for this show, and the voluminous, ratted ponytail gave a woman both the look of strength, and beauty. The distinctive ponytail he created has lots of texture, and it’s wide in teh middle, flat at the top, and comes to a soft point at the bottom. It’s strong, but still “girly.” Since some of the models were going to wear hoods, the tail had to be quite low, but David said that this ponytail would work high up on the head as well.
This model is getting her nails done while the stylist is doing the first step in the hair style–smoothing and straightening out the entire length of the hair. After Redken product is applied, hair is gathered into the low ponytail, held fast, and then the tail part is “ratted,” then smoothed only on the surface with a Mason Pearson brush that has been spritzed with Redken hair spray. A section is carefully wrapped around the foundation of the tail, and held fast with hairpins. The top of the head is sleek, but scrunched up just a bit to be “messy.” This is accomplished easily by working fingertips through the top a bit, as if one was sort of scratching her head. The ends around the face are tamed with a smaller, toothbrush-sized brush also spritzed with hairspray. Finally, the “tail” is twisted together at the bottom to form a soft point. It’s a beautiful look that you might want to try and copy, at home.
Did they wear nail polish in the Middle Ages? Not likely, but for this show, a sheer beige called “Serenity” (one of Creative Nail Design’s most popular colors) was used. The look was shiny, but with just the barest hint of color. Serenity is available in salons right now, so you don’t have to wait for fall to get this look yourself.
courtesy Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week There was texture, lots of soft wool, and metal accents that were “armor” like. But these clothes weren’t the only thing that harkened to King Arthur, there were also beautiful (and probably very warm and nice for winter) hoods that looked like the headgear knights used to wear beneath chain mail helmets. These were in luxurious black and grey cashmere, however, so they look both austere, and elegant. And, many of the designs had shield-like or crest-like elements, which looked really cute on the runway. Wearing one “medieval” ornament, such as a top or a skirt, mixed with a traditional jacket, for example, looks fresh and new.
This evening dress reminds me a bit of Medieval tapestry–and check out the intriciate beading and details! The dresses were short, but not as micro-mini as some of the shows. Most were above the knee (or higher) but tights (by Wolford) subdue the effect of a mini, and they also make legs look leaner and more toned.