Jenny Smith and James Boehmer are two of my favorite NARS makeup artists, and so it was as double treat to find both of them working backstage for NARS at Naeem Kahn’s runway show for Autumn Winter 2015 on February 17th. I’d just seen them at a NARS dinner, and James wouldn’t show me the look for NK on his phone, but he told me it would be pretty spectacular (and yes, it was)!
As James, Global Creative Director for NARS, explained, this was Naeem’s 10th anniversary season, and he wanted the look for the models not to portray one kind of woman, but to encompass the women of all ten years. He wanted the makeup to be dark, sensual, and a bit old Hollywood. James was inspired by the artwork of Tamara de Lempicka. The women in her paintings would still be modern today. James borrowed colors from Lempicka’s palette, with a smoky eye (two colors of shadow not too warm or too cool applied up to the eyebrows *another trend we’re seeing is neutral tones that flatter everyone) that James says is like being lit with Hollywood style lighting. There are no hard edges, and no mascara, liner or brows (but brow gel is used for control).
The clothing, especially the last looks, were mostly black and white and there is a lot of heavy embellishment and texture (see the examples in the closeups I took backstage), so the lip is a deep matte chocolate red (classic Naeem and also classic old Hollywood). This is done with three pencils (no lipstick): a lip pencil, an eyeliner pencil, and a lip liner (see below for the actual products and colors).
The skin is glossed with a glow on the cheekbones, but not blush. (the no-blush trend seems to be continuing for another season).
It gets very hectic backstage, and I wasn’t able to stick around to see the finished hair/mail/nail looks, so the color chart and the official photos of the finished looks below will have to satisfy, but here are some of my personal photos from backstage. I did a separate post on nails (by Essie) and Hair (by Davines)